![silver efex pro 2 display is darker silver efex pro 2 display is darker](https://lenscraft.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/08/Fig01-Effect-of-the-Contrast-Slider--600x174.jpg)
I again start at the top right of the sliders and work my way down sometimes a few tweaks and at others hardly anything at all, therefore I don’t use pre-sets in Lr as I would spend most of my time correcting the changes the pre-sets make. Once in Lr I switch to the development module. I don’t need to do that in this image, I am happy with the way the image looks so I then import the image back in to Lr. This is mainly with people’s faces or complicated backgrounds with out of focus areas. If I need to just make controlled adjustments I use the control points so as not to cause over processing of artefacts in the complete image. On the Glenfinnan, I am going to go Brightness 22 Contrast 22 and Structure 66. I normally brighten most images by about 20% then contrast about 20% and then apply quite a lot of Structure to make the images pop about 60% but this is all by eye and not an exact science. I start at the top and work down the sliders. The main sliders I use are Brightness Contrast and Structure and I make changes by eye to every single image I open. I only ever use the sliders and the controls on the right-hand side of SEP2 and only use the main sliders and not open them up for fine control. Once the image opens in SEP2, I do not touch the left-hand side of the program as this is mostly pre-sets and there is no point in opening a pre-set because I will then have to spend the next 10-20 min trying to get the image back to the way I want it from the pre-set.
![silver efex pro 2 display is darker silver efex pro 2 display is darker](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51fxIlm0o4L._AC_SX425._SX._UX._SY._UY_.jpg)
Once selected I will then import the first keeper in to SEP2 this is a simple right click open in SEP2. Once I have made my keeper selection I then highlight and delete the rest of the images leaving my keepers and these are all the ones with the one* sometimes at this point I will remove a couple of the one* images if I think the others are stronger. I will take you through my very simple workflow from start to finish with this image taken of Glenfinnan Scotland, this is the RAW file out of camera converted to Jpeg.įirst I import my images in to Lr and once in Lr I then view all my images and the images I want to keep I give a one * I do this in the Library module.
#Silver efex pro 2 display is darker upgrade
You can download a test card from the internet to check your screen, if you can’t see every band in the chart you need to calibrate of upgrade your monitor. If you don’t have a calibrated monitor or an old monitor its best to buy a new up to date LED type monitor as these are great out of the box. I view each image on my 27” Eizo Monitor, the monitor is calibrated regularly even though this is a black and white process I need to see every tone between the black end of the spectrum and the white end. After a few small slider movements I import the image back in to Lr for some final editing and then star rating this whole process takes less than 3-6 min per image. Once I have made my selections I then open each image in turn in SEP2 for conversion to black and white. I might shoot 40-60 images in a session or more but I normally only end up with 3-5 keepers if that. My workflow is simple and after a day out shooting I pop my memory card in to my MacBook Pro and copy the images in to Lr CC this is where I view the images and make my selections.
#Silver efex pro 2 display is darker free
SEP2 is part of the Google Nik Collection and was made free to everyone last year. I shoot most of the time in RAW but this process is just as effective with Jpegs, you just have less latitude with the Jpeg file. I use Lightroom CC and Silver Efex Pro 2 for all my black and white images. I like to keep my Black and White workflow as simple as possible and have refined my systems and processes over the last ten years.